The discussion is excerpted from our conversation. One of the subjects he covered was trying out different types of seafaring rigs for a newly built wooden sailboat which could easily apply to a self-built wooden Trimaran. The going with article will lead us through the subject Making and testing sailing chicago rigs.
Did you know that chafe ranks as the sail-killer? According to sail makers, cruising and racing sails sustain lots of wear along batten pockets and where the mainsail touches the shrouds when running downwind. Ask your sail maker to beef up the mainsail with chafe patches. This can prolong the life of your sail for years to come.
Dry Your Headsail before you Stow It: Mold and mildew love to bed down in a moist fold of Dacron or Nylon. Cut these ugly outlaws down before they stain your costly sails. Dry your sails before you bag them when you get back to the dock. Hoist the headsail or mainsail on a light air day for a few minutes. This dries your sail fast and easy without the fuss of looking for a shore side method.
When it comes to experimentation Polycarp is an underrated material. If you see a picture on the Duckworks website of my boat called "Caprice, " you'll notice it's a 25' Cat Ketch. I built it several years ago. You can visit the site and see a picture of it on the "About" page. The Caprice has got tanbark sails now, which were made by our sail maker.
Just keep in mind that seafaring downwind is much faster and easier than tacking! It's a good reminder to be aware of the time and allow plenty of time to get back to your original destination. Your next task is to trim the mainsail to the wind by using the boom block. The boom block is a sailing term that is a set of pulleys that are attached to the end of the boom and allows you to position the boom in various angles.
Inspect Your Stitching on Every Seam and lubricate your Mast Boom Slot: Thread holds your sails together. And after time, even triple-stitched panels, patches, and seams break down. Battens rub against pocket stitching, and sails flog and flap. Check the folded seam stitching along each sail edge. Next, move across each horizontal panel.
You can even tape pieces of tarp together at first. Then go back and sew them later if you want ... Or just leave them taped together. Another great thing about poly tarp is that you can try different things to create different types of sails. You can add shape to different sails by way of "darts." There is a great essay on the Duckworks website about cutting "darts" in sails to give them shape.
To lubricate the mast, apply a coating of beeswax onto your slugs or slides and hoist the sail up and down the mast a few times. This will make hoisting or lower fast, easy, and worry-free. Use these super seafaring tips to save big dollars in sail repairs. You will be rewarded with better performance and longer sail life for many maritime seasons to come.
Did you know that chafe ranks as the sail-killer? According to sail makers, cruising and racing sails sustain lots of wear along batten pockets and where the mainsail touches the shrouds when running downwind. Ask your sail maker to beef up the mainsail with chafe patches. This can prolong the life of your sail for years to come.
Dry Your Headsail before you Stow It: Mold and mildew love to bed down in a moist fold of Dacron or Nylon. Cut these ugly outlaws down before they stain your costly sails. Dry your sails before you bag them when you get back to the dock. Hoist the headsail or mainsail on a light air day for a few minutes. This dries your sail fast and easy without the fuss of looking for a shore side method.
When it comes to experimentation Polycarp is an underrated material. If you see a picture on the Duckworks website of my boat called "Caprice, " you'll notice it's a 25' Cat Ketch. I built it several years ago. You can visit the site and see a picture of it on the "About" page. The Caprice has got tanbark sails now, which were made by our sail maker.
Just keep in mind that seafaring downwind is much faster and easier than tacking! It's a good reminder to be aware of the time and allow plenty of time to get back to your original destination. Your next task is to trim the mainsail to the wind by using the boom block. The boom block is a sailing term that is a set of pulleys that are attached to the end of the boom and allows you to position the boom in various angles.
Inspect Your Stitching on Every Seam and lubricate your Mast Boom Slot: Thread holds your sails together. And after time, even triple-stitched panels, patches, and seams break down. Battens rub against pocket stitching, and sails flog and flap. Check the folded seam stitching along each sail edge. Next, move across each horizontal panel.
You can even tape pieces of tarp together at first. Then go back and sew them later if you want ... Or just leave them taped together. Another great thing about poly tarp is that you can try different things to create different types of sails. You can add shape to different sails by way of "darts." There is a great essay on the Duckworks website about cutting "darts" in sails to give them shape.
To lubricate the mast, apply a coating of beeswax onto your slugs or slides and hoist the sail up and down the mast a few times. This will make hoisting or lower fast, easy, and worry-free. Use these super seafaring tips to save big dollars in sail repairs. You will be rewarded with better performance and longer sail life for many maritime seasons to come.
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You can get a summary of the factors to consider when picking a sailing Chicago instructor and more information about an experienced instructor at http://www.saltydogchicago.com now.
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